Things I will and will not miss!

Back to work tomorrow – I knew this day would come eventually!
There’s just enough time for one last holiday blog post before reality sets in properly! (Mostly words, this one!)

Since getting back home at arse o’clock on Friday, I’ve had 4 days to settle back into ‘normal life’, and 4 days to reminisce about some of the things I will and will not miss about the USA.

THINGS I WILL MISS

  • The freedom. Being able to get up every day (except the days I had planes or buses to catch) and do whatever the hell I wanted. Or nothing (although that never seemed to tickle my fancy…)
  • The experiences. Playing in the snow, seeing awesome shows, exploring new cities… and that’s just the beginning!
  • Cheap Clif bars. And so many more flavours! Like, $1 each – I really should have stocked up!
  • (Mostly) not having to set an alarm to go running! 
  • Boston. I don’t think any other marathon will compare to Boston – but I’m willing to be proven wrong! I have an ever-growing bucket list of USA marathons – and I don’t even particularly enjoy marathons!
  • Probably most of all, the people I met along the way. Everywhere I went, whether it was fellow hostel guests or people I happened to be sitting next to in the theatre, the people were so friendly. I love meeting new people and although in my job I do get to meet a lot of people, it’s not quite the same. I think maybe it was my Australian accent that encouraged many people to be so friendly – or maybe it was just my amazing personality 😂😂😂 I find that solo travel leads to meeting a lot more people – when travelling as a group or a couple you don’t really need to make that effort and can end up getting stuck in your comfort zone. I met a lot of solo travellers on my trip. And you don’t necessarily need to be single to do it! I think everyone should do it at least once. You won’t regret it!

THINGS I WILL NOT MISS

  • THIS.
Yikes!
  • Living out of a suitcase. And having to repack it every few days for the next flight!
  • Having to make attempts to keep things tidy when staying in hostel dorms. As much as I like the idea of being tidy in theory, when I’m in my own place I tend to fill up all the available space!
  • Tipping. I do get why it exists, and I did get the hang of it, but I was quite relieved to get back to a place where it’s not a thing. 
  • Sales tax. Why oh why can’t they just factor it into the shelf price, rather than add it on at the checkout? I don’t want to do math on holidays!
  • Airport security. Again, I did get it down to a fine art but the amount of time wasted in airports when I could have been doing more interesting things…
  • Large swarms of tourists. I tended to try to stay away from them wherever possible! Not staying in Midtown in NYC certainly helped!
  • Sleeping in bunks! Top bunk is a pain in the arse getting in and out! Bottom bunk I kept hitting my head! I like my bed!
  • Having to Google to find good coffee in most places. I must say that other than in Vegas it was surprisingly easy to find good coffee, despite what many Aussies will tell you. You just need to know where to look! (And I’m proud to say I never stepped foot into a Starbucks!)
  • The exchange rate! The first time I went to the States I think we were on parity!

    All of that being said, it’s just a matter of time (and a small matter of money) before I start planning the next trip…

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    It’s good to know where your journey ends…

    And that is a song lyric blatantly stolen from Peter Allen, ‘I Still Call Australia Home’. Appropriate, because as I write this I am sitting in an airport lounge in Hong Kong waiting for my flight home!

    The last week or so of my holiday has been quite eventful!

    I arrived into Vegas around 6:30pm on a Friday which was also Cinco De Mayo. Probably not the best plan, in hindsight. Any Friday night, as the lady who checked me in to the Luxor, is always busy what with the Americans getting away for the weekend. Cinco is probably even worse!

    So I didn’t actually get into my room until after 8:30 and went for a wander around 9ish. Given my arrival time I hadn’t planned anything for Friday – just a walk down the Strip to stretch my legs. I’d forgotten how long the Strip is! And how hard it is to get around, with all the overpasses etc!

    I was going to go into the Irish pub at NYNY which is kind of a Vegas tradition, but there was a $10 cover so I decided against it! Last time I went there I bought the CD of the house band, so I can hear them for free any time I want!

    The other thing making Vegas particularly busy was the fact that there was a big fight on Saturday night which I found out at check-in – I made a mental note to stay away from wherever the fight was!

    Pretty much every venue had a Cinco fiesta – this was NYNY.
    Cool statue outside NYNY!
    The Bellagio fountains never get old!

    So Friday night was pretty quiet – just a wander, reacquainting myself with the area, and also checking out a few of the shops!

    Saturday was all about shopping – I had put aside the day to go to the Premium Outlet Mall – I only had time to do one, and chose the northern one as that one had lululemon. I must say the whole outlet experience was not as good as previous times – I didn’t get much stuff (lulu was a bit of a disappointment!) and there were definitely not as many bargains. Maybe the advent of sales tax had something to do with it!

    I did find this awesome gelato place, Amorino, which had heaps of vegan sorbets! I had chocolate, pistachio, and the most amazing blood orange and ginger! It was a pretty hot day too, so it was a welcome relief!

    Amorino – where have you been all my life?

    Saturday night I had a show to go to, but before that I grabbed an early dinner at Slice of Vegas Pizza in the Mandalay Bay Shoppes, right next to the Luxor. I went there specifically because they have a vegan menu – I had a feeling vegan food was not going to be quite so easy to come by in Vegas than in Portland!

    Yummy sandwich and the awesomest sweet potato fries!

    After picking up my ticket for Human Nature I went for a look around the Venetian shops – such an amazing setup they have there! The Venetian was where I stayed on my very first trip to Vegas and nowhere else has come close!

    Yep – that just about sums it up!
    If you haven’t been to the Venetian, this is all indoors!
    Complete with singing gondoliers!

    Human Nature were fabulous. I’d only seen them once before – at Carols by Candlelight in Adelaide in 1996, back when they were a boy band! And I was delighted to see them do an homage to boy bands as part of their show, including some of their own stuff! These guys are the total package – all-singing, all-dancing, funny, a brilliant show!

    They weren’t afraid to take the piss out of themselves!

    After the show, I thought about going back to the Irish pub but thought better of it – the fight wasn’t far from there, so I decided not to even bother going! Besides, I was going to have to be up early in the morning for my flight to San Francisco, so I decided instead to go to the piano bar at the House of Blues – not too crowded, really fun, and I managed to get a seat at the bar!

    Duelling pianos at House of Blues!

    I managed to squeeze all my stuff into my one suitcase, meaning that I wasn’t going to have to pay for a second bag on the flight! Anticipating a big haul at the outlets, I had fully expected to have to get the second bag out for the flight to San Fran. Once I got to San Fran there was no issue because on the flight home I could check 2 bags free of charge.

    I was up and away early the next morning – my shuttle pickup was at 8.

    Well, I was up, but I wasn’t away!

    Because when I got to the airport and went to check in for my flight, I found out that it was cancelled!

    I went to the check in desk and was told that I couldn’t get a flight to San Fran until the following day. They weren’t going to pay for a night’s accommodation, because the cancellation was known more than 24 hours ago, but they weren’t able to contact me to rebook me. She gave me a voucher for a discount on one of the airport hotels.

    I contacted the travel agent’s 24 hour emergency number – the girl I spoke to looked into alternative flights but she wasn’t able to find anything with any airline. So I went back to the lady at the check in desk and she booked me on the first flight out the next day. (I didn’t think that one through – it was a 7am flight which ended up meaning a 4am shuttle pickup! Still, I wanted to get the most time possible in San Fran!)

    Airport hotel? I’m in Vegas for another day, as if I’m going to stay at an airport hotel! No thanks, I’ll be staying on the Strip! I went on Hotels.com and found a room at the Excalibur (not the most fancy hotel but good enough and in a good location) for $29, (plus the resort fee of $30 something) – I thought that would be fine, and in case the travel insurance company weren’t prepared to pay for it, I didn’t want to risk spending hundreds on a fancy hotel room, especially considering I would hardly be spending any time there!)

    I contacted my hostel in San Fran and explained what had happened – in the end they didn’t charge me for the missed night, which they were quite within their rights to do, because I gave them less than 24 hours notice.

    I also went on Vegas.com to see about a cheap show for that night – might as well make the most of the ‘bonus’ night! I had a discount code from when I bought the Human Nature ticket, and ended up booking to see Blue Man Group – I’d heard good things, they were performing close to where I was staying, and it was an early show, given that I’d be getting up at 3 I was going to need an earlyish night!

    Fortunately I was able to check into Excalibur early, dropped my bags off and headed straight out to get some more cash and then headed downtown on the bus. There was a vegan restaurant near Fremont St, VegeNation, that I wanted to try out.

    Stupid Google Maps had me getting off the bus at the wrong stop but it did result in me walking down the street where all the wedding chapels were, which was kind of cool – including the one where Jon Bon Jovi got married!

    I ended up getting a burger from VegeNation and it was really good, I got it ‘to go’ as they were really busy and I didn’t want to waste time waiting for a table! I ended up having to sit at a bus stop to eat it though – there are literally NO places to sit on Fremont St!

    Another EXCELLENT vegan meal!

    I’d been to Fremont St before (aka ‘Downtown’ or ‘The Old Strip’) – I’d forgotten how tacky it was, almost as tacky as The Strip! Heaps of cheap and nasty souvenir shops but less people walking around with yard glasses of margaritas!

    I headed back to the Strip, I had read on the Interwebz about Cirque de Soleil having free open rehearsals for their Beatles show on Sundays, so I’d hoped to go to that, but found out when I got there that they don’t do it on Sundays anymore… so instead, I went shopping at the Fashion Show Mall!

    I made my way back to the hotel to get ready for the show. Blue Man Group was not like anything I’d seen before – hard to describe! Their own website describes the show as ‘comedy, theater, rock concert and dance party all rolled into one’ which is probably a good description! I was glad to be seated near the back, away from the ‘poncho section’! I really enjoyed the show and would recommend it to anyone who wants to try something different! It was a perfect ‘last show’ for the trip – I’ve seen a huge variety of shows during the past 4 weeks!

    Yeah… not really sure what the point of the headbands was!

    Then it was back to the hotel to pack and set my alarm for arse o’clock!

    Take 2! This time I actually did make it to San Francisco! And I had a window seat on the plane so I got to see Vegas from above!

    Damn wing, ruining my photo!

    I took the BART to the hostel – I stayed at USA Hostels where I’d stayed on my 2 previous trips to San Fran. My travel agent had warned me to stay away from the Tenderloin area. On the walk (all UPHILL!) from the train station to the hostel I noticed the flags advertising the neighbourhood as, you guessed it, Tenderloin! Luckily it was daytime, I certainly wouldn’t be wandering through here at night – lots of homeless people and, it appeared, drug addicts!

    I wasn’t able to check in right away, but I left my bags, quickly got changed and went to do my one ‘must-do’ for San Fran – a run across the Golden Gate Bridge! Given that I had lost a whole day, arriving on Monday instead of Sunday, and that I was leaving on Tuesday night, I had no time to waste!

    As I was dropping my bags off, someone behind me said “Hi Jane!” I looked around and it was Sean, an Aussie guy I’d met at the hostel in Portland, I knew he’d been coming to San Fran but we hadn’t discussed what hostel we were staying at – turned out we were at the same one! He was checking out as I was arriving! Small world! (San Fran has a lot of hostels so it is actually quite a big coincidence when you think about it!)

    It was a beautiful day, and as per a lot of the runs I’ve done while I’ve been in the States, I had to stop frequently to take photos! Stupid sexy San Fran!

    CRAP day for it!

    The run across the bridge itself was very ‘stop-start’ because there is just a narrow footpath which has to accommodate 2 directions of travel for both cyclists and pedestrians. Probably not a good choice of run if you wanted to run fast!

    From the other side of the bridge at Vista Point, I ran down to Sausalito from where I got a ferry back to Fisherman’s Wharf. The last part of the run I was able to get a bit of pace up, especially at the start where it was downhill!

    It was a bit cold and windy on the boat but the views were worth staying outside for!

    Then I walked back to the hostel via Union Square where I wanted to check out a few shops. lululemon was first – no good bargains to be had there! I also went to have a look at Macy’s, and a discount shop called Ross where I bought this amazingly comfy shoes (which have since given me blisters, but I have walked a LOT in them) – I had no qualms about buying shoes now, since I had the second bag! Plus they were only $20 AND machine washable!

    I eventually got back to the hostel to check in around 5ish, had a shower and grabbed a quick bite to eat. One of the really good things about this particular hostel is that they have heaps of activities, at least one every day. It’s a great way to meet people! Unfortunately I would miss out on the pub crawl on Tuesday night, as that started at around the same time as my shuttle was due to take me to the airport!

    I did however make it to wine and cheese night – naturally I didn’t partake in the cheese but I was pretty keen to sample some of the local Napa Valley wine! (I had considered booking a Napa or Sonoma tour for Tuesday, but given that I’d lost a day, and had been up since 3am, I thought maybe a full day tour might not be the best option! I did get my wine though, as it turned out!) 

    Free wine on a Monday night – very civilised!

    I got chatting to a guy called Leonard from Toronto and and an Aussie guy called Glenn (originally from Melbourne, had lived in Adelaide for a time but now travelling the globe) – pretty soon the free wine had all gone but Glenn and I got a bottle of Argentinean wine from across the road and ended up playing pool until the early hours of the morning with another Aussie called Jai (I’m hopeless with names – the only reason I remember his name is because he was from Mackay so I kept referring to him as ‘Jai from Mackay’!) and a girl whose name eludes me – after having been up since 3am I eventually hit the wall and went to bed in the early hours of the morning!
    Tuesday, my final day, I didn’t set an alarm, but ended up being up in time to go on a free walking tour. It was really interesting, I went to places I didn’t remember having been to on previous trips, and learned a lot from our guide Mina!

    Union Square – the Tony Bennett heart- was where the tour started!
    Cool frog sculptures near the Transamerica Pyramid, where the tour ended!

    After the walking tour I walked down to the Ferry Building to get a good coffee (my friend Emma had recommended Blue Bottle Coffee which was excellent!) and also check out another recommendation from Emma, Humphry Slocombe, an ice cream place with unusual flavours (they only had one vegan flavour, Pink Lemonade, which didn’t really appeal to me so I didn’t end up getting anything) and then walked down to The Plant for lunch – a curry ‘bowl’ (actually a box – I got it ‘to go’ because I wanted to go and sit down by the water to eat it!). I was joined for lunch by one of America’s giant seagulls!

    Like, twice as big as Aussie seagulls!

    Next on the agenda was to go check out the Palace of Fine Arts – how I’d never been there before I don’t know, but Glenn had recommended going there, and I’d already been to all the big ‘touristy’ places, plus this was free, and it was another beautiful day, so I thought why not? I was going to take a bus there but after sitting waiting for buses that never came, I ended up walking there!

    I would definitely rate this as a ‘must-do’ – you don’t really need heaps of time there although if you wanted to you could spend a good few hours wandering around! And you could sit on the grass and eat lunch with the ducks and watching the turtles!

    Seriously… just go there!!!

    Lots of these little guys swimming about!

    Time was getting away from me so I didn’t make it to the other place I’d hoped to go to – the Botanical Gardens, which happened to be free admission that day! (Free is always a good thing when you’re getting towards the end of a trip!) Leonard had told me about that, but I quickly realised that I wasn’t going to be able to do everything! My next priority was getting a bottle of vegan Baileys to take home! I couldn’t be sure if it was available in the duty free store (as it turned out, it wasn’t!) but it didn’t need to be duty free, I just wanted to bring a bottle home, since it’s not (yet) available in Australia! So I went to BevMo (I guess similar to our Dan Murphy’s or First Choice) and got a bottle which I carefully wrapped and packed in my checked baggage.

    Success!

    Then I went to a free yoga class at a nearby community centre (another activity recommended by the hostel) – probably the best thing I could have done before getting on the plane for 14 hours!

    And then, just like that, it was all over – my shuttle driver arrived to take me to the airport!

    The flight itself was OK – once again I was lucky enough to be on an aisle with no-one sitting next to me, so I was able to doze off without anyone needing to disturb me. I don’t think I slept a great deal but at the time of writing (4:30pm Thursday) I haven’t had to take a nap so it must have been enough! Saw a pretty good movie too – ‘The Founder’ about McDonald’s – and 5 episodes of ‘Portlandia’ which I hadn’t seen before but was interested to watch after having been to Portland, where it is set!

    I landed in Hong Kong around 6am on Thursday and wasn’t due to fly out until 7pm, so I left the airport and took the train into the city. I’d never been to Hong Kong before and didn’t fancy spending 13 hours in the airport!

    It was warm and humid – probably high 20s or early 30s. I went for a walk up to Hong Kong Park and the Botanic Gardens which was lovely – an oasis amid the hustle and bustle of the city! Plus it was only about 7:30 when I got to town and the shops didn’t open until 10!

    Love the contrast of the skyscrapers and the gardens!

    I also went for a walk down to the harbour and to some public viewing areas – one of the cool things I found about Hong Kong is that there are public spaces, often outdoor patios within restaurants or cafes, where people can just wander in and out! And many of them happen to have pretty good views of the harbour!

    Eventually 10am came so I went to the nearby shopping centre where, you guessed it, there was a lulu store. It didn’t take me long to realise that it was WAY expensive. Like, even more expensive than Australia! (I had to use my calculator because I couldn’t do the currency conversion in my head, but I quickly realised that I was not going to buy ANYTHING here!) The shops were all pretty high-end, and I was starting to get blisters on my feet by now, so I didn’t really fancy wandering aimlessly around the shops!

    There was one other shopping centre I wanted to check out, and I discovered another cool thing about Hong Kong, that a lot of the buildings are interlinked, so I was able to get almost to the other shopping centre without going outside! 

    Lots of cool public art here too!

    I got there and it was another high-end centre so I didn’t bother looking in any of the shops, instead deciding to head back to the airport, making my way back to the train station via a very pleasant walk down to and along the harbour.

    And then I decided to be a proper tourist and go on the observation wheel, because there was no queue, and it was only about $HK100 (equivalent to about $A16-17) – and was fortunate enough to get a whole car to myself!

    Nap time?
    Great views!
    Ahh… lying down!
    Money well spent!

    Then I headed back to the airport, through security and immigration and to the lounge which was nowhere near as good as the one I went to at Heathrow on my last overseas adventure! The only free alcohol was canned beer, and NOTHING in the drinks fridge was cold – I so wanted a Coke but there’s nothing worse than a warm Coke, so I ended up just going with water, which was probably for the best! Plus 3 cups of coffee to keep me awake until it was time to get on the plane!

    I had been looking forward to a shower but the lounge charged the equivalent of about $40 for a shower so I decided I didn’t want a shower THAT badly, and just got changed in the restroom (which was probably the smallest restroom EVER!) but still it was nice to have a fresh set of clothes for the last leg of the journey!

    Plus, I did get a free lunch – see, there is such a thing!

    So I think that is probably about it for my travel blog – hope you’ve been enjoying reading it! Back to normal programming next week – I have stupidly entered a trail race on Sunday so that could make for an entertaining race report!

    See you back in RAdelaide in about 12 hours!

    I knew I loved you before I met you…

    I never thought I’d be quoting 90s Australian band Savage Garden in my blog but there’s a first time for everything!

    I have been looking forward to visiting Portland for a very long time. Although I didn’t really know much about what there is to do in Portland (often abbreviated to ‘PDX’ after the airport code), I thought it was a very ‘me’ kind of place. 

    • One of the most vegan-friendly cities in the US (and the world!)
    • Eco-friendly 
    • A great running city
    • Good coffee
    • Legal weed (OK that wasn’t really one of the selling points for me but it does give you an idea of the laidback nature of the place!)

    First thing I noticed after touching down at PDX was how quiet the airport was – a stark contrast to the hectic O’Hare in Chicago! There was even a guy playing saxophone in the terminal – I liked the place already!

    It was raining when I arrived but the walk from the MAX light rail to my hostel wasn’t too bad. It was all uphill in the rain but it’s really easy to find your way around in the NW part of Portland. The East-West streets are named alphabetically (my hostel was between Flanders and Glisan, so I knew when I got to Couch that I was about blocks away) and the North-South streets are numbered, like in many of the cities over here.

    I was staying at the HI Portland Northwest Hostel. I didn’t get in until around 9ish, so was pleased to find when I got to my room that I had a bottom bunk! I was in a mixed dorm of 6, with an ensuite. Not surprisingly, being after 9pm on a Saturday night, all my roommates were out!

    I booked in to a free walking tour at the hostel on Sunday morning.

    But first things first, coffee! I Googled to find the best places (because life’s too short for bad coffee!) and wouldn’t you know it, one of the best JUST HAPPENED to be across the street! World Cup Coffee became a pretty regular coffee stop for me during my time in PDX!

    First coffee – conveniently just across the street! And one of the best in town!

    The walking tour was excellent – it was a great way to start my time here, meet some other hostel guests, and figure out other places I needed to visit!

    Pretty painted houses just near the hostel.
    One of Portland’s many pieces of public art!
    Mill Ends Park – in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s smallest park!
    Blatantly stolen from Austin TX but Portland can legitimately use this slogan!
    Most cities I’ve been to in the US have a bike hire scheme. Cycling-mad Portland is no exception! The bikes here are sponsored by Nike. One of the many things I didn’t know about Portland was that it is the home of Nike!
    Charge your electric car while you work! That’s so Portland!
    The Portland Building and ‘Portlandia’ – the second largest copper statue in the US. I’ll leave you to guess what the largest is!
    Love this – check out the distance to Tipperary!

    After the tour was over, a few of us went with our guide Matt for lunch and a drink at Fat Head Brewing. I did manage to get lunch there – their vegan options were limited but the hummus was excellent!

    Then I went to the Saturday Market (yes I know it was Sunday – that’s just how they roll here!)

    The Saturday Market – on Sunday!
    Bought a T-shirt from here and got to put Adelaide on the map!
    The famous Portland sign – looks better at night but I wouldn’t want to be around here at night – bit sketchy!
    And then I found the ‘Animals in Fountains’…
    ‘Animals in Fountains’
    ‘Animals in Fountains’…
    Aargh! A bear!

    I felt like something healthy for dinner so I browsed a folder full of menus at the hostel and found this gem of a place – Prasad which is a mostly vegan place attached to a yoga studio. It was almost closing time when I arrived so my Urban Bowl came in a box – not quite so photogenic as a bowl but equally delicious!

    Excellent Urban Bowl (in box form) from Prasad!

    You can’t come to Portland without visiting Powell’s Books, the world’s largest independent bookstore. And I’m pretty sure you can’t leave Powell’s without buying something! I certainly couldn’t (and that was why I only went there once – as a traveller who is pushing the luggage weight limit, books are the last thing I should be buying!)

    They’re open until 11, so after dinner I thought I’d head down there and check it out!

    How can you not love a bookstore that needs a map?
    This was the section just on RUNNING BOOKS (and that doesn’t even include the separate section on Marathon)
    Gonna have to have words! Jogging – grrr!
    The vegan cookbook section!

    Monday’s weather was not looking great, so I decided to do more indoorsy stuff. A trip to Hawthorne Blvd, with its quirky shops and myriad of eating places, was just the ticket! It is walkable but I didn’t fancy it in light drizzle, plus, it is far. And public transport is excellent and CHEAP!

    First of all though I had to see the Bart Simpson cartoon!

    Providence Park – home of the highly successful Portland Timbers MLS team! And the Thorns – the women’s team!
    Portland is also the home of Simpsons creator Matt Groening! This Bart sketch was done by MG himself just outside his high school. Many Simpsons characters are named after Portland streets. To name a few – Flanders, Lovejoy and Quimby! Many times the NE FLANDERS ST signs have been vandalised!

    Once I got on the bus, my first port of call was Herbivore Clothing – a vegan clothing store I’d found out about from the vegan shoe store in NYC! 

    Love a colourful mural! On the way to Herbivore!

    I knew there was a vegan mini mall in PDX, but I didn’t realise Herbivore was part of it! So excited when I realised!

    The vegan mini mall! I could have spent a LOT of money here…
    First stop Herbivore Clothing – they ship internationally!

    I bought a top and some cool stickers, and the sales assistant was super helpful, giving me a list of recommendations from food places to bars to ‘things to do’!

    Then coffee was needed and a light morning snack! Sweetpea Baking had both of those!

    Sweetpea Baking for vegan noms and good coffee!

    And then I went to the vegan grocer, Food Fight, primarily to try their vegan soft serve.

    The pet section of ‘Food Fight’ vegan grocer!
    The Food Fight merch! I did totes buy the ‘VEGAN MEANS I’M TRYING TO SUCK LESS’ tote bag!
    And topped it all off with a vegan soft serve! Check out their opening hours! Man I love this place!

    One Portland institution is Voodoo Doughnut. I’d walked past their downtown store several times and the queue was out the door. But they have a second store on the Eastside, conveniently quite close to where I was. So I decided, why not? They have quite a good vegan selection – it was hard to choose just one! I thought I did choose just one but when I got back to the hostel and opened the box, I’d got 3! Presumably the salesperson misunderstood me when I mentioned a few I liked the look of, and took it to mean I wanted to buy them all! Maybe it was just a completely foreign concept to her, the idea of buying just one donut! I’m sure I paid for 3 – clearly I wasn’t paying attention! Oh well – it would be enough to last me the rest of my time in Portland!

    When in Rome… I thought I’d try Voodoo Doughnut when there wasn’t a 30 minute queue!
    I’m such a tourist – Exhibit A!
    I’m such a tourist – Exhibit B!
    These boxes are as common in PDX as Krispy Kreme boxes used to be among people coming to Adelaide from the eastern states!
    Yeah – pretty good, although I couldn’t eat a whole one in one hit!

    I’m always one to stop and appreciate a good mural – especially a brightly coloured one!

    One of the murals I liked…
    When in Oregon…
    Cool cat!

    Hawthorne Blvd was cool – lots of vintage and other quirky stuff! I didn’t buy much other than coffee and I did get one CD for $1. It was a good way to spend an inclement sort of day!

    On my last coffee stop, I checked the map and realised I was very close to Mt Tabor, a place I had intended to go to, but not on this particular day. Apparently the climb wasn’t too hard and the views were pretty good! So despite me wearing my Birks and carrying 2 bags, I decided I might as well go!

    Stairway to heaven? Well, stairway to a pretty good view anyway!
    Yeah… not bad!
    The things you find in the forest!
    I presume this is Portland’s version of Colonel Light?

    On returning to the hostel, I couldn’t believe I hadn’t seen this signpost earlier!

    Another signpost – this one outside the hostel AND bizarrely, with Adelaide on it!

    Dinner was a pizza from Hotlips Pizza, walking distance from the hostel. They do have vegan cheese but I opted for cheeseless. So good! And enormous!

    Custom vegan creation from Hotlips Pizza. This did me 2 sizeable meals. Could quite easily have done 3!

    Later that night I went out to a local dive bar with a couple of guys from the hostel – an American guy who I saw ALL THE TIME who was super friendly and chatty but I actually don’t think I ever got his name, and an Irish guy called Mark who was heading to Vancouver to find work (I did meet a lot of people who were road tripping up or down the West Coast – seemed like the thing to do!).

    Tuesday was another dreary day so I again decided to hit a few shops, first walking downtown (I needed to return a cable to the Apple store and also was looking for some black ballet flats which I finally found!)

    I also found more Animals In Fountains!

    More ‘Animals in Fountains’! Insert beaver joke here…
    This one got my seal of approval…

    Then I made my way up to NW 23rd Street, not far from the hostel, for some more funky shops (more high-end) and more animals!

    Let’s just overlook the fact this one is promoting a leathergoods shop, shall we?
    Last animal for the day – promise!

    So after that came the best part of the day! I had been wondering if I could get to run on the Nike track, at Nike headquarters out at Beaverton. I was Googling and hey guess what? Nike Run Club was on that night! I tried to register online with no success, but decided to just go there and hope I’d be able to join! And as I’m a Nike Run Club member back home, I was pretty confident they’d let me in!

    So I got dressed to run (complete with rain jacket as it was still raining) – unfortunately I had absolutely no Nike gear on me! I then made the long trek out to Beaverton via 2 buses. When I got off the bus I saw a girl all in Nike gear so I asked her if she was there for the run, which naturally she was! We got to talking as she led the way to the track (not sure if I would have found it otherwise!). Her name was Kaori and she was from Japan, here studying English.

    The Nike campus is amazing! Huge, and beautiful!

    Firstly I checked in with no problems (although according to Nike I am 41 which I wasn’t too happy about, I’ve only just got used to 40!), dropped my bag at the bag tent and went to get my pace band.

    This group is SO well organised – they have pacers – I think from memory there were 6 pace groups. The guy handing out the bands asked me my 5k pace which I told him (in minutes per km of course – I can’t do miles) but he suggested the purple group. He said if it was too slow I could always move up a group. I suspected that would not be an issue – tonight was really all about the experience for me, it wasn’t training as such.

    Photobombed by Kaori!

    The other groups were blue, red, green, black, and yellow. Except, being Nike, yellow wasn’t yellow. It was Volt!

    Before we started running the coach did a bit of a speech. The session was all about promoting the ambitious ‘Breaking 2‘ attempt – aiming to break the 2 hour barrier in the marathon which is quite unbelievable! 2 Nike athletes (professional soccer player Allie Long and former Oregon Ducks and NFL quarterback Dennis Dixon) were interviewed and the group got to ask questions.

    Q and A with the pros!

    The run itself was pretty short – we did intervals of 100m/200/300/400/500/600 and then back down to 100m. Our pacer led out each time so there was no thinking required! And with 6 groups of varying paces, it was so well organised so we never got in each other’s way! And everyone was so supportive, cheering on the other groups while waiting for their next interval!

    Stretching after our warmup run through the stunning Nike complex!
    The photographer got more of a workout than most of us runners!
    BEAUTIFUL place to run!
    Cheering on one of the other groups!

    And afterwards we all got a free towel and T-shirt, and they put on food for us too! What better way to spend a rainy Tuesday night?

    Just some of the spread!
    Part of the crowd!
    Rocking my new T-shirt and posing with Michael Johnson!

    And to top it all off I had the rest of that pizza waiting for me at the end of the long trip back to the hostel!

    Wednesday’s weather was MUCH better. I had factored this in when I chose that day to do a full day waterfalls and Mt Hood bus tour. And what a great day it was!

    I thought I’d allowed plenty of time to get to the pickup point but only just made it! The tour company was Wildwood Tours and our guide was the awesome Bryan! We were a small group of 9 and I sat up front so got to chat a bit more to Bryan and pick his brain!

    Bryan also had snacks (sodas, water, local apples and local hazelnuts) which he offered us at every stop!

    He was super enthusiastic and particularly excited because it was such a beautiful day, so we got better views than most groups would get! 

    First stop was the Vista House, a house that was essentially built as a restroom. Which also happens to have pretty amazing views!

    Our first stop – the Vista House – great views of the Columbia River!
    Vista House!

    Then we stopped at the first of 4 waterfalls for the day – Latourell Falls.

    The first of 4 waterfalls – Latourell Falls!

    The second waterfall was Shepperd’s Dell.

    Shepperd’s Dell Falls

    Another waterfall which we didn’t get to see (because it was under the road we were driving on) had a pretty cool story. It’s called Bridal Veil Falls, and it is in the tiny town of Bridal Veil. Bridal Veil is famous for having the busiest post office in the country (and the third smallest!). Because EVERY bride in the region (and many from all over the world) want that postmark on her wedding invitations!

    The third, highest and most famous of all the waterfalls was Multnomah Falls. It is actually the most visited place in all of Oregon – I hadn’t even heard of it before this tour! It is the second highest year-round falls in the USA. I forget what the highest was (not Niagara, which was my guess!). We were lucky we got there early because, being the first really nice day of the spring, it would get REALLY busy later in the day! 

    Multnomah Falls from below!
    Impressive!

    The last waterfall stop was Horsetail Falls – nowhere near as impressive as the others but the one we could get closest to – Bryan said we could drink out of it, which of course I did (he said side effects may include beard growth and penchant for fixed-gear bicycles – yes, he was a hipster!)

    No beard yet!

    Lunch was at a small town called Hood River – I’d brought a bagel with me from the hostel (the hostel provides a free bagel and coffee each morning, and on the days I knew I’d be out all day, I’d take it ‘to go’) so I got to spend the whole hour wandering around checking out the shops.

    Bryan recommended a place called ‘Artifacts – Good Books Bad Art’ which I spent quite a bit of time at, and COULD have spent a lot of money! In the end I spent $1 and got a hardcover running book! Yes, more books!

    Just some of the selections on offer!
    Just some of the selections on offer!

    After lunch it was time to head up to Mt Hood, Oregon’s highest peak and home to the only year-round snowfield in the USA! Yes, you can ski and board in summer here!

    We stopped a couple of times for photos on the way up, and on the second stop we got to go into the snow! It was pretty soft in places – one of my legs went in all the way up to my knee!

    Clouds are sort of obscuring it but there’s Mt Hood!
    Nearly lost a shoe in there!
    Anyone for Snowga?

    Last stop of the day was Timberline Lodge where we got to have a play in the snow and check out the views! And no, I wasn’t cold in the slightest! Before we went up the mountain the temperature was in the 80s which is high 20s in Celsius. At Timberline it was a very pleasant 17 degrees Celsius!

    Nearly there!
    Timberline Lodge!
    Just chilling in the snow!
    If you don’t move quickly enough you’ll sink!
    Picture perfect!
    So much fun!

    The journey home was a bit slow due to traffic heading into the city (everyone was probably out enjoying the sunshine!) but this sign amused me greatly!

    I would recommend this tour to anyone visiting Portland who wants to get out and see more than just the city. Try to pick a day with good weather for an even better experience!

    Due to the traffic, we got back later than scheduled and as a result I was unable to make it to the running group I had planned to go to, which had been organised by my Adelaide running friend Kay, formerly of PDX!

    I did, however, make it to my other planned activity for the night, a gig at Dante’s (the ‘Keep Portland Weird’ place). I had wanted to go there for ‘Karaoke From Hell’ on Monday – karaoke with a live band – but couldn’t find any takers at the hostel and didn’t fancy going on my own!

    Before Dante’s I went to Veggie Grill for a healthy meal, after 2 nights of pizza and donuts!

    They had me at avocado…

    Then it was off to Dante’s where there were 3 bands on the bill. 

    First up was Portland’s ‘Latter Day Skanks’. Rather than try to describe them, here’s their bio:

    The Latter Day Skanks started out as humble Mormons who felt different. The cross-dressing & hard rocking Latter-Day Skanks guarantee to blow your mind and rock your ass. Bring your naughty self to a show and leave your morals, inhibitions and virginity at the door.

    Great way to kick off a night of weirdness and music!

    Next up was ‘Beatallica’ from Milwaukee. It’s exactly what it sounds like. A mash-up of Beatles and Metallica. And I read that Metallica actually quite enjoy what they do!

    Really enjoyed these guys!

    The headline act was ‘Okilly Dokilly’ – a metalcore band from Phoenix who dress up as Ned Flanders and all their songs are Flanders-themed! I really enjoyed the show but it wasn’t really my kind of music and if I just heard the music without the visuals I don’t think it would have been quite so enjoyable! Still, a great end to a very entertaining night!

    5 Flanderses!
    The donut was later thrown around the crowd like a beach ball!
    The closer – after a wardrobe change, the appropriately named ‘Nothing At All’!

    I took an Uber home and finished the last of my Voodoo Doughnuts!

    Thursday was another warm day, so I decided to get outdoors again.

    Firstly I walked to Washington Park (up a lot of steps – that was hard work! Going up hills and stairs is HARD!) and went to check out the Rose Garden. Unfortunately, due to construction, it was hard to get around and the only blooms I saw were on my tights!

    One of Portland’s nicknames is ‘Rose City’.

    Then I walked up the MAC (Multnomah Athletic Club) trail to the Wildwood Trail in Forest Park. Wildwood is 30 miles long – I planned to run about 10k on the trail but a landslide meant the trail was closed about 4km in, forcing me to detour. As luck would have it, my detour took me to a great viewpoint at Pittock Mansion!

    Love an accidental view!

    It was great to run on a trail that was close to the city but at times felt miles away (until I heard the construction equipment or had to cross a busy road!)

    So tranquil!
    Hard to believe we’re in the city!
    Surrounded by giant sequoias. The Wildwood Trail is well marked and easy to follow!

    After my run I went to 23rd St, to try out a few recommended places! First there was Salt & Straw, a Portland ice cream place known for unusual flavours (such as pear and blue cheese!). I had one of their seasonal flavours (floral themed for May) – iris liqueur with edible flowers!

    Nice. Different. Unusual!

    Then I got a takeaway donut from Blue Star Donuts – I went with the orange and olive oil. I saved it for later in the day – so good – best donut of the trip so far!

    The evening activity was an art walk through the Pearl District. The Pearl District houses many art galleries, and on the first Thursday of every month many of them launch new exhibitions, and have live entertainment and sometimes even wine!

    I found the wine!

    It was a really good night, we went to heaps of galleries and in many cases the artists were present (so it was a good thing I kept my opinions on some of the pieces to myself, like “WTF is that meant to be?” or “Who would pay 10 grand for THAT?”

    But I didn’t say that about any of these. These ones I liked!

    Afterwards a few of us went to a bar near the hostel for a drink and bar snacks, and I finally tried a local pinot noir (which was excellent!) 

    One of the girls on the tour mentioned that she was vegan, so I asked for a recommendation for Friday’s lunch (being my last meal in Portland!)
    I had an in-depth conversation with our guide, Robert, about topics including Trump, drug companies and horoscopes/star signs (we had to agree to disagree on that last one!)

    On Friday it rained (which seems to be par for the course on the day I leave a city!) but I still needed to try a coffee from Stumptown Coffee Roasters, probably the best known proper coffee place in town. (Obviously Starbucks does not count as proper coffee!) so I walked downtown.

    Watching the rain and drinking good coffee!

    Next was another one of those Blue Star Donuts but when I got there they were out of the orange ones!

    Then it was time to do my final packing, check out and take a bus downtown to Loving Hut, an all vegan restaurant that had been recommended. I had a fried rice and green tea, and I also got a complimentary soup which was delicious too! Perfect ‘last meal in PDX’!

    I got to the airport in plenty of time, checked my bag (made the weight limit by the skin of my teeth!) and was excited to find a Blue Star at the airport! With my orange donut! AND, amazingly, the guy who served me gave it to me on the house! You could say, everything was coming up Milhouse!

    Even the airport security staff were friendly! The friendliest in the world!

    I went to the airport Stumptown outlet for a last PDX coffee but was tempted by their cold brew with coconut milk – like a vegan Farmers Union Iced Coffee (but better!)

    Alaska Airlines are great – their overhead bins are nice and spacious, and they have charging points at each seat!

    Portland is definitely one of my favourite places ever! Can’t wait to come back again!

    Hard to say I’m sorry…

    In case you were wondering, that was a Chicago reference.

    Because this week’s blog post is all about the 5 days I just spent in Chicago!

    I’d never been to Chicago before (of the 9 cities/towns on my itinerary on this trip, I’d only visited 3 before. And that’s not even including Hong Kong!). Not only is it an incredibly interesting city, but it is also home to Emma, one of my oldest friends (not in age but in amount of time we’ve known each other – we started school together in 1982!) so it would be great to not only have a place to stay where I wouldn’t have to share a bunk bed, but also someone who knew the place well and could show me all the cool places to go (within the restrictions of only having 5 days, of course!)

    Unfortunately we hit a bit of a snag when Emma was sent to San Francisco for work on Monday, the day I arrived. However she was able to leave keys for me at the front desk of her apartment building so I could still stay at her place as planned. And she was due back Wednesday night.

    While in Philly last week I had discovered that Game 6 of 7 (if required) of the first round of the NBA playoffs between the Chicago Bulls and the Boston Celtics was scheduled for the Friday I would be in Boston. At that stage the Bulls were 2-0 up so there was no guarantee that it would even get to Game 6, but I messaged Emma to see if she’d be keen to go, which she was! The Celtics had done the right thing by winning the next 2 games, effectively guaranteeing Game 6 would happen, so while on the train from O’Hare Airport to the city centre, I bought 2 nosebleed tickets on StubHub. It would be my first NBA game – on previous USA trips I been to football (NFL in San Diego and NCAA in LA), NHL hockey in Vancouver, MLB baseball in San Diego (plus Boston on this trip) and MLS soccer in Seattle. I hadn’t thought NBA was on the cards on this trip, being playoff time, but everything fell into place!

    On Monday I got a message from Emma to ask if I’d like to go to a Yo-Yo Ma concert that night with her friends. Now I have to admit I had to Google to find out who he was – I had heard of him but didn’t know what he did! I quickly accepted the offer – Emma had bought the ticket some time ago and didn’t want it to go to waste. Plus it would be a good way to meet some people given that I was staying in an apartment by myself (as opposed to a hostel, where you naturally meet fellow travellers!).

    After ‘checking in’ to my lovely and very conveniently located digs for the next 5 days, I went for a walk to Trader Joe’s to grab a few things and was immediately blown away by the architecture and the skyline! 

    My first introduction to Chicago!

    I decided to leave a bit early to walk to the Symphony, to do a bit more exploring. I found the very impressive Millennium Park and the waterless Buckingham Fountain. (I later found out that it is emptied during the winter due to the water’s inconsiderate tendency to freeze!) Now, I love me a good fountain but I gotta say they’re a lot more aesthetically pleasing when they are actually ‘founting’!

    Climbing wall in Maggie Daley Park (adjacent to Millennium Park) which also features an ice skating ribbon and tennis courts, among other things!

    I met Emma’s friends Lyde and Cheena at the Symphony and we proceeded to climb 6 flights of stairs to the nosebleed section (I counted over 100 stairs!) but we still had a pretty good view!

    So many stairs… but quite the view!

    The concert was excellent – I wasn’t familiar with any of the music (it was all Bach) but I thoroughly enjoyed it. As well as Yo-Yo Ma on cello, we had Edgar Meyer on bass and Chris Thile on mandolin – both excellent musicians in their own right. Annoyingly, I very inconveniently had a coughing fit during the second half and eventually decided to stand right in the back by the door so I could quickly duck out should I need to!

    Tuesday happened to be 25 April, known in Australia as ANZAC Day. I’d found a service in Chicago through some Googling, and walked down there. It was a short ceremony, with readings from Australian and New Zealand representatives, and the many local runners who went past us must have wondered what was going on! 

    The service was followed by breakfast at the rooftop bar at the Wit hotel – great spot! I hadn’t RSVPed to the breakfast (given that I’d literally only found out about it the previous day) but Lyde, who had also been at the service, told me to come anyway – as it turned out the only vegan option there was coffee! I met a few other Aussies, one of whom, Cate, had lived in Chicago for many years, happened to work in the building next door, and knowing I had some time to kill before my next activity for the day, invited me to come to her building to see the observation deck – cracking view! 

    The Jewelers’ Building – one of my favourites!

    Another shot from the observation deck!

    (One weird thing about ANZAC Day in another country is that it isn’t a public holiday here of course, so most people are dressed in business attire and have to dash off to work!)
    One of the big ‘things to do’ in Chicago is an architecture cruise. There are many companies that operate cruises on the Chicago River, I opted for Shoreline as that was the one Lyde had mentioned. Tuesday was probably the best day weather-wise of my stay in Chicago so I wanted to make the most of it.

    The architecture cruise was fantastic and something I’d recommend to all visitors to Chicago (and locals, if they haven’t done one yet!) I believe the Architecture Society runs one that is longer, more detailed and consequently more expensive. Maybe architects would be best to do that one, but for the rest of us, the Shoreline one gave me everything I needed!

    Marina City!
    Perfect day for it!
    Yeah – not a bad view!

    After lunch at Native Foods (a vegan chain!) and a quick trip to Ross (a shop that sells designer gear at reduced prices – a very dangerous place for me!) to buy a new handbag to replace the one I’d been carrying around for the past 2 weeks with one broken strap, I headed to the Skydeck at Willis Tower (known for many years, and still known to many locals, as Sears Tower) – once the tallest building in the world. I bought the Day/Night pass which got me 2 entries in one day – one during the day and one at night.

    The big attraction up there (other than the incredible views over the city and Lake Michigan) was The Ledge, a glass platform you can stand on and look straight down over the buildings. Not for everyone, but appealed greatly to me. And many others too – evident from the long queues at each of the 4 glass platforms along the western side of the observation deck. As I got closer to the front I was increasingly bemused by the plethora of those horrible things called ‘selfie sticks’ and annoyed by the people (OK I’ll say it – almost exclusively female) who took AGES to get the perfect shot – pretending to be supermodels or whatever, and when they didn’t look perfect, made their personal photographer take it again! Consequently I spent a great deal of my time up there, waiting in line to get onto The Ledge!

    I did take quite a few pics up there (see pictures above and below) but in fairness that was in 4 separate visits to The Ledge. And you can see I’m in different outfits, as there were 2 separate visits to the observation deck. 
    In between said visits I stopped off at the apartment to get changed and go for a run (my goal for this trip is to run in every city at least once – Vegas is the only place I might struggle to find a good route to run!) – I opted for the Lakefront Trail along Lake Michigan – a popular spot and from the photos you can see why! It was a bit convoluted and involved crossing a bridge/going up and down stairs, but I managed to get in a good 12k, the longest I’d run since Boston.

    I then had a quick shower and headed back to the observation deck as I wanted to not only see the city at night, but also watch the sunset from above. Between my visits I also came up with a few new ideas for poses and managed to get up on the ledge as the sun was setting as well as after dark.

    The lengths some people will go to!

    Chicago tourist tip #1 – if you’ve got time, you can save money by going up at around 5:30pm (during Daylight Saving) and staying until it gets dark – thereby getting day and night in one visit. Might want to bring a book though – the sun takes a while to go down!

    Wednesday’s weather did not look like being anywhere near as good as Tuesday’s, so I thought it was a good day for indoor activities! Being a little bit of a science nerd (in that I find it fascinating, not that I am in any way an expert!) the Museum of Science and Industry was the logical choice. It is located in Hyde Park which was a short bus ride away and is the location of the University of Chicago and also home to the Obamas!

    I definitely did not have enough time here – I assumed it closed at 5 when it actually closed at 4 – a rookie mistake and one I won’t make again anytime soon!

    Highlights were:

    • The ‘Brick By Brick’ exhibit (playing with Lego among other things – what’s not to like?) – an extra cost on top of admission but well worth it.
    • The model train that had to be seen to be believed – illustrating the journey of products (eg apples and timber) as well as passengers from Seattle to Chicago, including very detailed miniature models of both cities! Literally I could have just watched that for hours (that was the first thing I saw) but I was pretty sure there was more to see!
    • The shell of a real United Airlines plane (insert topical joke here) attached to the balcony on the upper level – and a video explaining how it got there!
    • The maze of mirrors in which I genuinely got lost!
    Lego Golden Gate!
    My creation!
    The plane – and the model train below.
    Hard to do the model train justice!
    More train!
    On the plane!
    Lost in the mirror maze!
    Cloned!

    The lowlight was the extremely loud school kids (I don’t think you can avoid them, regardless of when or where you go) who made it impossible for me to hear some videos I was interested in, about genetics and specifically the Human Genome Project. 
    But overall I thought it was excellent and well worth a visit – maybe bring your iPod!

      Chicago tourist tip #2 – check the opening hours of museums and galleries before you go – because invariably you won’t have time to see everything and you don’t want to miss out on anything important!

      I heard from Emma that she wasn’t going to be back now until late Friday night. I now needed to find something to do for the next 2 days (not an issue in itself but the weather was not ideal so that was a bit of a limiting factor). Plus ideally I needed to find someone to use Emma’s basketball ticket on Friday – luckily Lyde was keen to go and suggested dinner beforehand at a local vegetarian place!

      Speaking of vegetarian, I was pretty hungry by the time I left the museum at 4, so I used my trusty Happy Cow phone app to find nearby food – conveniently there was a place very close by called B’Gabs – funny name but excellent food! All vegan and mostly raw – I went with a raw burger – a first for me! A bit tricky to eat but delicious! 

      I then had a browse in the nearby secondhand bookstore (Powell’s) – something often found in university areas! Due to books being relatively heavy and unsquishable, I have so far resisted (I’d bought 2 so far) but couldn’t pass up Stephen Hawking’s ‘The Grand Design’ for only $4.95 + tax! A little light reading for the plane trips! Trust me, if imminent plane travel wasn’t a factor I could have bought up big there!
      After returning to the city centre I made an unnecessary trip to TJ Maxx, a shop similar to Ross. I ostensibly went in there for a pair of black ballet flats which I’ve been searching for this whole trip but walked out sans ballet flats but with a pair of running tights which I most definitely did not need (but which in my defence were amazing) and a Chicago Bulls T-shirt which I did kind of need for the game on Friday.

      Then it was time for my ‘When in Rome’ moment. Like the cheese steak in Philly, I was determined to try a Chicago staple, a deep dish pizza. After Googling it seemed that Lou Malnati’s, also one of the most famous places for deep dish pizza, was my best option for vegan deep dish. It was a bit of a hike from the shops and then back to Emma’s but I was determined to try it!

      When I got there and asked about a vegan version, the first girl effectively said ‘No, we don’t do that’. I then stepped outside to try to find another nearby place that might be more amenable. An Instagram search of #vegandeepdish kept coming back to Lou Malnati’s as the best option, so I went back in and asked (with a straight face) for a ‘Deep dish cheese pizza without cheese’. The guy who served me that time was somewhat dubious and even had to go out the back to ask if it could be done! Which of course it could! I added mushrooms and just got a small. It took a while but eventually I had the pizza in my hand and took it back to Emma’s place where I finally got to eat it. And you know what? It was really good, and lacked nothing in taste by not having cheese! I actually only ate half, which was great because that would take care of Thursday night’s dinner as well!

      After Emma told me she was stuck in San Fran until Friday, I had a bit of a think about what to do. I had a crazy idea to catch a bus to Milwaukee and visit the Harley-Davidson museum. The bus was only about 1.5 hours and $10 each way. I decided to sleep on it and if I decided in the morning that I was keen, I’d walk to the bus station and see if I could get on.
      So on Thursday morning I woke up just in time to eat breakfast before wandering down to the Greyhound terminal to try to get on the 10:00 to Milwaukee. As it turned out, the 10:00 was full as was the following bus, so that made my decision easy! It was for the best anyway, as it was colder than I’d anticipated and I’d neglected to bring a jacket, and also I’d forgotten to throw a Clif bar in my bag for the road.

      So I made my way to Hero Coffee, my favourite coffee shop in Chicago (funnily enough, when I did eventually catch up with Emma, she said she was going to tell me to go there!) to have a coffee, use the wifi to look at booking a trip to Milwaukee on Friday, and read the Redeye, one of the local street mags.

      I opted for the 12oz instead (96oz is about 2.8 litres!)

      Milwaukee was a no-go because the bus times, and my early dinner plans, meant I’d only have a couple of hours in Milwaukee, so I decided it wasn’t worth it.
      In the street press I read about a fitness class happening on Friday morning, featuring kettlebells and, more importantly, 80s hair metal music! So naturally that was a no-brainer!

      I also Googled museums – after considering the Field museum (natural history) I settled on Chicago’s No. 1 tourist attraction (according to TripAdvisor), the Art Institute.  There was Thursday taken care of – it was open until 8pm Thursdays! I was definitely going to get my money’s worth out of this one!

      The Art Institute was, quite simply, amazing. You would need a MINIMUM of 4 hours to even get close to doing this place justice. I spent over 7 hours there!

      Highlights for me were:

      • The Impressionists – they’ve always really appealed to me
      • Only some of the modern art – most of it I didn’t really like but I did like some of the Picasso and Dali Surrealist stuff!
      • Some of the Ancient Greek sculpture 
      • Chagall’s American Windows
      • The special Hélio Oiticica exhibition – lots of interactive and multimedia stuff
      • The medieval religious art (again, has always appealed to me, weirdly enough for a heathen!)
      • My last stop for the day – the miniature rooms down in the basement! Mindblowing!
      Georges Seurat – ‘A Sunday on La Grande Jatte’
      Pierre-Auguste Renoir – ‘Two Sisters’
      Salvador Dali – ‘Venus de Milo with drawers’
      Pablo Picasso – ‘The Old Guitarist’
      Kathe Burkhart – ‘Fuck You’
        A kylix – or wine cup – with a face!
        Another drinking vessel!
        Part of the Hélio Oiticica exhibit – so fun!
        Another part of Hélio Oiticica
        Sitting on a mattress, watching images of cocaine while listening to the Stones – all part of the Hélio Oiticica experience!
        Cool lamp!
        Just one of the miniature rooms, each one from a specific period and specific region – amazing!

        Unlike many attractions I’ve visited so far, they actually let you leave and come back! So I took the opportunity to walk over to Millennium Park to eat my lunch, where I was questioned by a couple of design students about my views on ‘The Bean’ (officially ‘Cloud Gate’) – they initially thought I was a local but were still interested to hear my views!

        View from the bridge on the way to Millennium Park – those pipes hold speakers, they go over a big lawn and concerts are held there in summer. Apparently the sound is fantastic!
        ‘The Bean’ – aka ‘selfie stick heaven’!

        When I did eventually manage to drag myself away from the Art Institute, I decided on a whim to walk down what is known as the Magnificent Mile (lots of high end shops which I managed to resist going into) to the John Hancock building to go up to yet another observation deck. This one was different though – this one had the Tilt. You may have heard of the Tilt. If not – check it out here!
        I had to pay for entry to the observation deck, plus I decided to fork out the extra $5 for a rooftop cocktail, then the $7 for Tilt, which was over pretty quickly but an amazing experience (you’re in a glass booth which tilts outwards over the city – the view is incredible and it’s not really that scary!)

        You totally should do it!

        The photos were a massive ripoff though – they were going to charge me $25 for one photo which was taken from behind so didn’t even really show me tilting! No thanks!

        The view was pretty good although I didn’t feel the need to stay long after I’d seen it all from Sears Tower a few days earlier!

        Yeah – that view never gets old!
        Cheers!

        First order of business on Friday was to take the train to Through The Body for my ‘Hellz Bellez’ class! Such a fun concept – the music was so good, finishing up with a little Leppard and Poison, and even with the 2.5lb kettlebell I definitely felt the effects the next day! Thanks Stephanie for an awesome class!

        SO fun!
        Best. Soap. Dispenser. Ever!
        The restroom!

        So my plan after a shower and one last load of washing, was to hit up the vintage storesof Wicker Park. I did eventually get there but was caught out by the confusing Chicago train network which brings me to my 3rd and final tip for Chicago:

        Chicago tourist tip #3 – the train network is confusing! If there are stations on 2 different lines with the same name, don’t assume it’s the same station! As an example, the Blue Line has 2 different stations called Harlem!

        Instead of Wicker Park I found myself in Pilsen, the Mexican neighbourhood (which is HUGE, FYI!) It is a vibrant area and there is a mural district which I didn’t find, but I did eventually work out where I did need to be! Next time I’m in Chicago (and there will be a next time!) I’ll make sure I get a whole day in the Wicker Park neighbourhood!

        From there I went to Green Zebra to meet Lyde for dinner – I ended up having 3 courses and a cocktail, all vegan, all delicious!

        From there we headed to United Center for the Bulls v Celtics game.

        We were in the nosebleed section but could still see everything that was going on. And there was ALWAYS something going on. Dunk contests, acrobats, a Chinese woman on a unicycle flipping bowls off her foot onto her head, T-shirts being shot out of cannons, T-shirts in parachutes – never a dull moment! Pity the game was a non-event and the Bulls lost the series that night and consequently are now out of the playoffs! Nevertheless, it was awesome to experience an NBA game live despite the one-sidedness of the contest!

        Fun fact – the Blackhawks (NHL) play here too. The court is literally laid on top of the ice!
        Actual basketball!

        Dunk contest!

        And the night finished with another first – my first ever Uber ride! Public transport wasn’t really an option to get home given the dodginess of the area, so I decided to download the app and give this Uber thing a try! Uber is not really big in Australia but is pretty huge over here. I was lucky enough to have a very good experience with an excellent driver, Andrew – seems like a pretty good system!
        On Saturday, my final day in Chicago (fortunately I was on a 4:55pm flight so I had most of the day) I finally saw Emma, who’d got in around 2am! We went for brunch and way too much coffee (they kept topping us up!) then for a cup of tea at Intelligentsia and finally a donut (I can’t remember the name of the place but they had literally one vegan donut which was more like a muffin but still good!) before heading back to Emma’s place to get my stuff and head to the train! It rained pretty much all day so we tended to stick with indoor activities!

        Thanks Emma for the hospitality! Great to see you albeit briefly!

        One of the things I’ve noticed everywhere in the States but which seems to be most obtrusive in Chicago out of all the places I’ve been to, is the homeless people. They’re on pretty much every corner but it’s not just that.  In Chicago I saw one guy walk through traffic and ask people in cars for money – I’d never seen that before, only the Good Friday appeal in Melbourne which is different, that’s charity collectors, and it’s all-pervasive (but only for one day). On Saturday alone we had one guy in the foyer of the donut place (which was really awkward because it was kind of hard to say you had no spare money when you obviously just bought donuts) and finally a guy who walked past us 3 times at the train station asking for money (after we’d only said no, like 30 seconds ago)
        So, that’s Chicago for you! I will be back! I have a feeling next time the Chicago Marathon may be on the cards! 

        Next stop Portland, Oregon! 

        The Washington Ultra!

        It’s not what you’re thinking!

        Although, I was tempted to enter a 50k trail ultra in Oregon next weekend…

        I had 2 full days in Washington DC – arriving late Friday afternoon and leaving early Monday morning. And having never been before, naturally I wanted to see everything!

        I took a Greyhound from Philly, arriving at Union Station, and from there it was a short walk to the bus that took me pretty much to the hostel door.

        I can’t speak highly enough of the hostel – HighRoad DC – probably the best hostel I’ve stayed in. You name it, they’ve got it.

        • Friendly and helpful staff
        • Fantastic location in Adams Morgan neighbourhood
        • Free wifi (seems to be pretty much the norm over here, except at JFK airport!)
        • Power points EVERYWHERE, including on each bed (yes, even the top bunks – I was ‘lucky’ enough to get a top bunk once again)
        • Reading lights on each bed
        • Free hire of locks for the lockers in the dorms
        • Plenty of space in the dorms for luggage
        • Clean!
        • Fully equipped kitchen 
        • Free coffee!
        • Pancakes on Sunday mornings 
        • Activities and recommendations for things to do each day
        • One of the guys even baked choc chip cookies on Sunday evening – they smelled amazing! (I didn’t bother to ask if they were vegan – just enjoyed the smell!)

        I checked in to my room and quickly found a vegan-friendly place across the road thanks to my trusty Happy Cow app – Amsterdam Falafel Shop! Perfect! Highly recommend!

        And then I met my bunk mate, Reece. I could detect an Australian accent so when he asked where I was from I just said Adelaide. He said “Me too!” SO Adelaide! (I forgot to do the ‘one degree of separation’ thing – I’m sure we have at least one friend or acquaintance in common!)

        I found out at check-in that there was a big science march taking place on Saturday, and a lot of the hostel guests were visiting DC for the march. I hadn’t heard about it, therefore naturally I hadn’t planned on going, but thought it would be worth checking out! Plus, the march was starting at the Washington Monument, which I wanted to see anyway!

        Friday night I went for a wander to the nearby second hand bookstore which was open until 10! Nearly bought a few books too but had to think of the weight and the room it would take up in my suitcase! My plan is to hold off getting my second bag out, until I get to Vegas!

        I was surprised at the number of people who were up early for breakfast on Saturday, until I remembered the march – the reason many of the hostel guests were in Washington. I met a few of them including Julia who was handing out hand knitted ‘pussy hats’ for people to wear at the march (beanies that looked like cat ears!) and I gratefully took one!

        No. 1 on my list for Saturday was Roosevelt Island parkrun.

        parkrun is not big in the USA yet but is growing. On Saturday, the 9th USA parkrun was launched, in Minnesota. Of the 9 parkruns in the States, 3 are in the DC area! Roosevelt Island was the closest to where I was staying. It was going to take me about an hour to get there by public transport (including a walk at the end, as there are no vehicles on the island) so I thought I may as well run the 5.2km – a good warmup!

        After a few scenic diversions I eventually found the sign that showed me I was in the right spot.

        I introduced myself to the Run Director, Darrell, who I later found out is also the boss of parkrun USA!

        I also met a few Aussies who are on a posting from Canberra – Scott, Jaycob and Kate, who invited me to come for coffee afterwards – because post-parkrun coffee is not really a ‘thing’ here. Yet.

        The run itself was lovely – a few little hills, and mostly on fire track and boardwalk! It’s a hidden secret (which explains in part why it was so hard for me to find) and it’s hard to believe you’re in a big city! I managed to sneak in under 25 minutes which was pleasing given that Boston was less than 5 days earlier!

        The kind of scenery I got to see! Ah, the serenity!
        Some of the crowd gathered at the start.
        I think maybe we need to steal this idea!
        Roosevelt Island parkrun gets the thumbs up!

        After the run I went with my new Aussie friends to a coffee shop called Grace Street Coffee. You can rely on Aussies, and runners, to find good coffee wherever you go! I got some great recommendations for things to do, and they very kindly gave me a lift back to my hostel which was great – I’d planned to run back, but it was raining, and also it would give me more time for exploring!

        After lunch at the ever-reliable Sweetgreen, first stop was the White House. I didn’t stop here long – just long enough for a quick photo op!

        The White House. Because, Washington!

        Then I made my way to the Science March – first a rally at the Washington Monument which had been going since the morning, and then eventually a march to the Capitol (which I didn’t join).

        Trump, naturally, was a common theme among the many very clever and funny signs!
        Trump, naturally, was a common theme among the many very clever and funny signs!
        Trump, naturally, was a common theme among the many very clever and funny signs!
        Trump, naturally, was a common theme among the many very clever and funny signs!
        These guys were standing posing for photos for AGES!
        This guy had a few friends too!

        After all the marchers had passed by I finally made my way to the Washington Monument!

        Photobombed on the way to the Washington Monument!
        Pretty impressive!

        From there I walked past the War Memorial to the imposing Lincoln Memorial.

        Lincoln Memorial – also impressive! Great spot for stair reps too!
        The man himself!

        And then more walking, all the way back PAST the Washington Monument, to the Capitol!

        The view from Lincoln back to the Washington Monument.
        I’m not sure what this was about but naturally I had to get a selfie with it!
        The Capitol!

        A lot of the signs from the march had been left behind outside the Capitol.

        Some of the signs left outside the Capitol.
        Some of the signs left outside the Capitol.
        Some of the signs left outside the Capitol.
        Some of the signs left outside the Capitol.
        One of my favourites! Perfectly positioned too!
        One for the Breaking Bad fans!

        After I eventually got back to the hostel, I was on my way to Trader Joe’s to grab a few things when I saw Busboys and Poets, a restaurant/bookstore recommended by Aussie Kate and decided to have dinner there. It looked busy but I asked if I could get a seat at the bar – instead they showed me to a group of lounges around a central table and I happily took a seat there!

        Dinner! Vegan burger and sweet potato fries!
        And a vegan brownie for dessert!

        After dinner I had a look in the bookstore. I was tempted to buy a few books but again held myself back!

        Sunday’s adventure began early. I had originally planned to run to Arlington but then I would have had to go back to the hostel for a shower before doing anything else. So I decided instead to walk, leaving the hostel at about 7:10am. I made a slight detour via the Australian Embassy! Not a particularly attractive building compared to many of the impressive and imposing structures around the city!

        Saying ‘G’day’ to the Australian Embassy en route to Arlington!

        My next plan was to visit the Einstein Memorial, recommended by Julia, but couldn’t find it, so decided to do that at the end of the day, after the museums were closed. 

        Then I made my way across the Arlington Memorial Bridge to the Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia. This route was popular with runners! And Sunday was a much better day weather-wise compared to rainy Saturday!

        The start of the bridge!
        Well hello Mr Horse!
        The Arlington Memorial Bridge – looking over towards Arlington National Cemetery.
        View across the water!
        John F Kennedy’s gravesite, with the Memorial Amphitheater in the distance.
        Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
        Not a bad spot to spend eternity…

        From Arlington Cemetery I took the train to the Pentagon, ostensibly to visit the Memorial, but I was also keen to see The Pentagon itself (even though photographing the building is not allowed!)

        Entrance to the Pentagon Memorial
        Some of the memorial benches, with The Pentagon in the background.
        Another sneaky shot of The Pentagon, with the pentagon-shaped ‘window’ in the fence!
        Pentagon Memorial

        From the Pentagon I took a train back across to DC. Leaving the station, I met up with a guy called Josh who was visiting from Jersey and was trying to find the National Mall. I was looking for Pennsylvania Av which wasn’t far from there, so we walked together and chatted. After a while we realised we were a bit lost. Then it got to the point where it would have been awkward for me to reveal that I had Google Maps on my phone! Eventually we got where we needed to be! My first stop was Newseum. Now a lot of the museums (all the Smithsonian ones) in DC are free. Newseum is not, but there was an exhibition there that I really wanted to see – Louder Than Words – Rock, Power and Politics. So I paid my money and went in!

        This was a joint venture between Newseum and the Rock N Roll Hall of Fame.

        First stop was the FBI exhibition – they had pieces from various different crimes including the Boston bombing (naturally of particular interest to me) and 9/11.

        Some of the reporting around the Boston bombings.
        Trump seems very popular here… NOT!

        Then it was up to the top floor, first to the balcony with this awesome view up Pennsylvania!

        That’s the Capitol next to my left ear!

        And then the exhibition I came for. I took many photos – I won’t bore you with all of them – I’ve just picked out a few of my favourites – but I’ve decided that on my next US trip I need to visit the Rock N Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland!

        The guitar with which Jimi Hendrix played ‘The Star Spangled Banner’ at Woodstock.

        This was a bit about censorship from the ’80s and this is the jacket and shirt Dee Snider wore at the hearing.
        Bill Clinton’s saxomaphone!

        I could have spent a whole day here, easily, but I really wanted to go to the Air and Space Museum so I went to the 9/11 exhibition before heading off.

        There was a big focus here on the reporters and photographers – there was a short film about some of the reporters and cameramen who were involved in reporting the news. And one photographer who was killed when the tower went down. Powerful stuff!

        Part of the antenna from the World Trade Center. In the background – how newspapers around the world reported the news.
        Not much doubt over this result!

        From there I made the dash to the Air and Space Museum. Being free, I wasn’t so concerned about getting my money’s worth! I did buy a ticket to see ‘The Dark Universe’ (narrated by Neil DeGrasse Tyson – that was the sealer!) in the planetarium. Spectacular and well worth the extra money!

        Not to mention a good chance to sit down for half an hour and just chill!
        Checking out Amelia Earhart’s ride!
        Steve Fossett’s ride from his round the world balloon trip which started and finished in Australia!
        This was cool – a simulation of a plane taking off and landing at Reagan Airport (where I was going to be the next day!)
        Apollo-Soyuz test project!

        I would definitely recommend a trip to the Air and Space Museum but give yourself half a day if you can! (And of course there are SO many other amazing museums that are also free!)

        Then I found Einstein!

        Just chillin’ with my mate Albert!

        By the time I eventually got back to the hostel (around 7:45pm) I’d done close to 40000 steps for the second day in a row – 28km!

        60km in 2 days – that’s an ultra in my book!

        As I finish writing this I’m in Chicago. I did see the Pentagon from above on the flight here (spewing I couldn’t get a pic as I was in an aisle seat!). I could easily have spent a week in DC and not got bored! If you’re wondering whether or not a stop in DC is worthwhile on your next US trip, wonder no more! (2 full days is barely enough!)

        Oh and there’s a pretty awesome marathon that I now want to do – the Marine Corps Marathon – one of the biggest in the world! Just add that to the list…